High heels and 13 santas: how Satu Rämö celebrates Christmas in Iceland
Author Satu Rämö considers herself a Christmas person of two countries, spending half of her holidays in Iceland and half in Finland. Somewhat unexpectedly, Finns come across as more laid-back, while Icelandic Christmas places great importance on high heels, a hairdresser appointment, and 13 Santas.
My childhood Christmases were snowy, cozy, and relaxed. We roasted ham in the oven overnight and put up Christmas lights in our horse stable’s window. On Christmas Eve, we made rice porridge, went to the sauna, ate our Christmas meal, and that evening Santa brought our gifts. Then adulthood arrived, and I moved to Iceland.
The journey into Icelandic Christmas has been an adventure! I’m now a Christmas person of two countries. I don’t want to mix the traditions but instead enjoy each in turn: one year in Finland, the next in Iceland. And believe me—these two Christmases are truly different. Somewhat surprisingly, Finns seem more laid-back.
“Somewhat surprisingly, Finns seem more laid back.”
Although Icelanders are usually spontaneous and easygoing, Christmas is an exception. Preparations begin in the summer, when families decide whose home will host the extended family’s Christmas Eve gathering for the year. Cooking responsibilities are assigned weeks in advance: one person takes care of the starter soup; another prepares the turkey, reindeer, or smoked lamb; and a third handles side dishes like caramelized potatoes, peas, and Waldorf salad. Another person manages the beverages, making sure the fridge is stocked with ingredients for jólabland, or “Christmas mix.” It’s made by mixing orange soda and alcohol-free home-brewed malt drink in roughly equal parts. This light brown, ice-cold drink is enjoyed at almost every meal from November to Epiphany, but on Christmas Eve, it’s absolutely mandatory.
You must book your Christmas haircut in October; otherwise, you might only get a slot in late November, which would be disastrous. Visible roots are apparently a no-go for Christmas Eve. I told my spouse’s relatives about my Finnish traditions—like wearing long-sleeved thermals and reading books on the sofa. My in-laws were horrified and reminded me that in Iceland, you absolutely can’t wear such Finnish “long johns” at Christmas. The women do their makeup and dress up, while the men wear suits or at least a collared shirt and tie.
And this I’ve also learned: Icelandic Christmas festivities start exactly at 6 p.m. on Christmas Eve. High heels at six p.m.? Where I’m from, we’d be in the sauna at that time!
“If you don’t want to end up as cat food at Christmas, remember to dye your roots, get a new dress and intact tights, and put on those high heels!”
Icelanders’ meticulous approach to Christmas makes sense once you hear their old folktales. Thirteen mischievous Santas descend from their mountain one by one. The first santa arrives on December 12 to pester the sheep. The group also includes a santa who slams doors at night to wake people, and another who steals children’s candles on Christmas Eve.
However, the one most feared in Icelandic Christmas is the mother of these thirteen Santas. Her name is Grýla, a giantess from the mountains and lava caves who stomps into town with a gigantic sack to carry off misbehaving children. Grýla’s sidekick is the huge black Christmas Cat, whose favorite meal is anyone wearing dirty or ripped clothes. So, if you don’t want to end up as cat food this Christmas, be sure to dye your roots, find a new dress and intact stockings, and step into those high heels!
Satu Rämö is a Finnish author living with her family in Iceland’s Westfjords. Her latest work, Rakel (WSOY)—the fourth installment in the Hildur crime series—was published in early November 2024.
