This smoke sauna disappears into the forest and ignites your imagination

As the frost begins to deepen, the atmosphere in the sauna hidden at the edge of a field reaches its peak. The builder of this sauna, donning a fur hat, casually tosses logs into the stove and puts salmon into its very own smoke sauna.

The sun swiftly descends from the frosty sky and disappears behind the field, enveloping the surroundings in a mystical twilight. Only the lanterns along the paths and the flames of the stone-built hearth illuminate the landscape.

There used to be an old smoke sauna here, but it sadly wasn’t that inviting anymore. The couple had been dreaming of a new sauna for a long time and decided to build one on the site of the demolished old sauna. Their main idea was for the sauna to blend seamlessly into the surrounding nature and become almost invisible.

The stones for the ground floor of the smoker were collected from a nearby field. The design took shape as the mason built the structure upwards.

The smoke sauna is most often heated during winter frosts, while the fish smoker is used almost every weekend.

On either side of the sauna, there are sturdy, skillfully peeled tree trunks. The owners call their sauna the Rölli sauna, named after a well-known Finnish fairytale character, a gnome living in a forest. There’s no doubt it is a fitting name—so perfectly it blends into the surrounding landscape. Yet there is also something very modern hidden within the sauna.

“Smoke saunas often have one thing in common: they tend to catch fire at least once, and some burn down completely. It’s hard to burn this smoke sauna because its frame is made of concrete,” says the cottage owner.

“The concrete parts of the sauna are practically cast underground. The interior is lined with rough-sawn boards, so the atmosphere is just like in traditional log smoke saunas,” he explains.

The origins of the smoke sauna lie in the couple’s shared ideas. They also found inspiration for building it during their vacations together.

While watching over the sauna fire, the couple enjoy sauna refreshments, rustically served on a wooden board.

The construction project lasted a year, involving earthwork at the sauna site, casting the frame, putting up the structural logs, building the turf roof, and finishing work. There were many challenges in the process, but the fireproof smoke sauna has proven worth the effort.

“Of course, we had machines to help with the earthwork. Still, there was plenty of work left after that for the man with the shovel—and then some,” says the owner.

This sauna can’t be heated in a rush. On the first sauna day, you should set aside at least five hours for it. When the frost deepens, heating can take an entire workday. The next day, the stove starts more easily, and the bather gets to climb onto the benches as fast as in two hours. You can expect to use up a cartload or two of firewood.

In addition to fish, the owners prepare meat in the smoker. When they do, they place a baking tray over the grill.

The stove, designed and built by the owner, is lit from the outside of the sauna. The stove itself is built from the foundation stones of an old cowshed.

“The firebox of the stove also serves as an atmospheric element for those heating the sauna. In a smoke sauna, you don’t heat the sauna’s walls but the stones on the stove,” he says.

“Depending on how cold it is and how many layers you’re wearing, you can watch the fire for up to an hour. You can enjoy the sauna refreshments while admiring the stars in the frosty sky,” his partner muses.

Before heating the sauna, the couple open the ventilation vent. When the firewood kindles, they leave door ajar and add wood as each batch burns down. After removing the ashes, they throw water on the stones to get rid of any carbon monoxide fumes, and then they wait for the smoke to clear.

Each bather has their own bench seats to avoid getting soot on their skin on the benches.

“The seats are made from thin plywood and are stored outside the sauna. Those heading out to cool down from the sauna can take their own seats and sit warmly on the bench outside,” she says.

Everything essential—the benches and the stove—fits into twelve square meters. Water comes to the sauna via water pipes.

The lighting enhances the ambiance. The owner has installed spotlights to illuminate the large pine trees.

There’s another, albeit much smaller, smoke sauna for salmon nearby, which the owner also heats up. The couple has also prepared vendace and pork neck in the smoker. It is built in Finnish archipelago style: the lower part is built from natural stones, with a firebox made of firebrick inside. The upper smoke chamber is constructed from lightweight logs.

“The archipelago style smoker heats up like a smoke sauna. First, you heat the stove, which raises smoke into the wooden section for the fish,” he explains.

“The fish to be prepared is always dried before putting it into the smoke; that’s when it smokes properly. We serve the salmon with sweet chili sauce or blue cheese,” she adds.

The couple climb onto the benches with no worries about the temperature. They don’t need a thermometer in the soft, long-lasting heat. The only sources of light are a stable lantern and a few tea candles. It is completely silent on the benches. The silence is only broken by the deepening frost crackling in the trees of the nearby forest.

The atmosphere of the age-old sauna tradition is complete. Stars sparkling in the sky light the way to the mythical experience.