How to prune an apple tree—see clear instructions

Regularly pruning your apple tree is worthwhile because a properly pruned tree yields a better harvest. Ornamental apple trees require less maintenance, as they are typically pruned only when young. The goal with pruning an apple tree is to create an airy structure with sturdy branches. An airy tree receives plenty of light, promoting the formation of flower buds.

If your goal isn’t a large harvest, you can be less diligent with pruning your apple tree. However, annually remove branches that rub against each other, grow inward or straight upward, as well as those that are growing too densely. Also, cut off hanging branches that make it hard to move around the tree, as well as water sprouts growing at the base of the tree. Remove damaged and dead branches as soon as they appear. It is not necessary to treat pruning wounds with wound sealant.

A newly planted apple tree roots best if it’s not pruned immediately at planting but about a year later. By then, the tree has had time to root well enough to produce normal-sized leaves and shoots.

When to prune an apple tree

The appropriate time to prune an apple tree is in early spring before growth starts, during March–April, or in mid-summer from mid-July to mid-August. The more heavily you prune an apple tree, the more it grows, and the longer it takes to bear fruit. However, summer pruning does not cause as much additional growth as spring pruning.

Apple tree branches also require bending. A branch bent horizontally receives light along its entire length, stops elongating, and starts forming flower buds.

Thinning apple tree fruitlets

An apple tree’s harvest varies annually. Often, the tree bears fruit only every other year or less frequently. You can influence the next year’s harvest by thinning the fruitlets. As a result, the tree is better able to form new flower buds. You’ll also benefit from thinning the fruitlets—the ripening apples will be larger and of better quality.

How to prune a young apple tree

In early summer, bend the vertical branches that grew this year and last year downward. They will harden into their new position by late summer.

A branch growing sharply upward is usually best removed entirely, especially if there’s ingrown bark between the branch and the trunk, as this weakens the joint. Avoid creating wounds that are too large on the trunk; the diameter of the wound should be at most one-third of the trunk’s thickness. If you want to keep the tree low, shorten the leader annually and remove any competing leaders.

How to prune an old apple tree

An apple tree that has reached fruit-bearing age grows moderately. It’s sufficient to monitor its branches and tidy them as needed. Favor removing small branches over large ones, and start with the weakest. It’s best to remove branches while they’re still thin; the tree can heal the wounds quickly, especially if the wood is allowed to dry undisturbed—fungal spores that cause decay do not thrive in dry wood. Dead branches can be removed at any time.

Lower the crown of a tree that’s too tall, but remove at most a quarter at a time. Pruning too heavily causes the tree to produce excessive shoots, which can be detrimental. It can be difficult to prune branches from the crown of an old tree in the middle of summer, as the branches to be removed can easily tear off healthy branches, fruit spurs, and leaves along with them. Keep in mind that you cannot restore a tree in poor condition to good health by pruning.

Cut off all dead branches, as well as branches that rub, grow inward in the crown, or straight upward. In spring, tidy up rabbit bite marks by shortening the damaged branch up to the first living bud. You can remove about one-fifth of each healthy branch of a tree that’s in good condition, as long as the branches are thin. Remove shoots growing close to the trunk inside the crown; since they grow in the shade, they won’t produce fruit. Over time, you can also remove fruit spurs that are no longer productive. Prune the tree in spring before growth starts or in midsummer.

Avoid removing branches with a diameter of more than seven centimeters. Remember to leave the branch collar on the tree, but avoid leaving stubs.

You don’t always need to remove the entire branch; you can also shorten it at a branch fork. This lightens the branch and causes it to lift upward. If the tree has a weak branch union—that is, ingrown bark between the branch and trunk—it’s advisable to lighten the branch by shortening its branches. This way, the joint will better withstand the weight of the harvest.

Thinning water sprouts and spur pruning

A damaged or excessively pruned tree may produce lots of new shoots. If the shoots grow rapidly and develop large leaves, they are water sprouts. The tree may look healthy, but in reality, water sprouts are a distress signal. They grow as a result of damage or severe pruning and quickly provide the tree with additional energy to replace what was lost.

Water sprouts grow from dormant buds beneath the bark and are not as firmly attached to the trunk as regular branches. If a sprout becomes heavy, it may tear off, causing a large wound and additional problems for the tree. Unfortunately, a tree that produces lots of water sprouts cannot be restored to its original shape, so it’s wise to use the saw sparingly. A tree that produces root suckers also indicates a problem.

Thin water sprouts in midsummer, as regrowth will not be as vigorous as when pruned in spring. If you remove all the water sprouts at once, the tree will only start producing even more of them. Remove root suckers and shoots growing directly from the trunk.

It’s advisable to remove shoots by thinning every summer. Remove only a couple of shoots from each old pruning wound, starting from the oldest ones. You can also shorten thick water sprouts at branch forks to slow their growth. You can remove the shortened water sprouts completely later, in 2–5 years depending on their thickness.

If young, thin shoots are located in a sunny spot, you can spur prune them in spring. This helps the tree produce flower buds. Shorten the shoot just above the third bud. The following spring, remove the outermost shoot and shorten the lowest shoot above the third bud. Perform spur pruning every spring. After five years, the fruit spur’s productivity may decrease, and it can be removed or shortened. Spur pruning can also be done on mature apple trees.

Expert: Horticulturist and arborist Lotta Lindholm