Marja sews all her clothes herself—her jeans and hoodies pass even the teenager test

“Even the most challenging projects are completed one stitch at a time. That could very well be my motto,” says Marja Niemi. She made the shirt in the photo at the end of her summer vacation. The jeans she’s wearing were sewn for her son, but when he outgrew them, they became hers.

The anorak’s design is simple, but Marja says it took surprisingly long to sew because matching the checkered pattern requires precision. The fabric is Marimekko’s Tiiliskivi.

Marja sews all her clothes except for socks and tights. I also make clothes for my 14- and 16-year-old sons; they only want to buy sportswear ready-made.

It feels good when the boys turn to me first and ask if I can sew a piece of clothing for them. My teens still appreciate the clothes from mom’s atelier: jeans, t-shirts, hoodies, and even underwear. Most recently, I made a suit for my older son. He was very satisfied with the outcome. When making a pinstripe suit, matching the stripes requires precision. I found myself still pondering some areas I would have liked to refine.

Marja’s first self-designed pattern, a hexagonal bag, was published in the Tauko sewing magazine last summer. For clothes, Marja mainly uses ready-made patterns, which she finds in magazines and books. She usually only adjusts the length in the patterns. Great garments can also be created by combining different patterns, Marja hints. Marja shares photos of her crafts on Instagram at @m3niemi.

The ‘Apple Tree’ dress is sewed from vintage Metsovaara fabric. Marja often finds suitable fabric for a new project in the stash she has accumulated over the years. Marja likes to buy fabrics from brick-and-mortar stores like Salapakka in Helsinki. She has also become familiar with Finnish and foreign online stores.

I have always sought challenges to overcome. As a high school student, I created Kaffe Fassett’s intarsia knits, which could have dozens of shades of colors. I made ’90s-style sweaters for all my family members, and my parents still use them. I sewed my own prom dress, although its quality doesn’t stand up to scrutiny anymore.

My complete infatuation with sewing happened when I was expecting my firstborn. I started with cloth diapers, then moved on to baby clothes. I sewed a lot from recycled fabrics and my old clothes. It didn’t matter if something went a bit wrong.

When baby clothes no longer offered enough challenges, I began sewing for myself. When I was expecting my second child, I finished my dissertation. When asked if I wanted a watch or jewelry as a graduation gift, I wished for an overlocker.

Marja also repairs and mends clothes. She became enthusiastic about darning when the Finnish Crafts Organization Taito chose it as the craft technique of the year in 2021.

Marja’s mended socks are like small works of art, where new shapes have formed over holes and wear. The fabric patch is attached to the sock using fusible interfacing, and the edges are sewed with blanket stitch. Marja adds to the pattern as needed when the sock needs more mending.

At long meetings I often have a knit with me, as the sound of a sewing machine would disturb others. The same applies on airplanes. I don’t watch TV without a knitting, hand sewing, or mending project to do. I have a strong need to create, my hands don’t like being idle. When my hands are working, I can focus better.

I have lamented that socks and tights still have to be bought from the store. By darning, I can also leave my mark on them. Initially, I patched soles with round jersey patches inspired by the Sormustin crafts blog. Then the holes and wear transformed into clouds, strawberries, and balloons. The patches are usually hidden from view, but you can always delight others with pictures of mended sock soles on Instagram.

Marja’s sewing machine and overlocker are always ready at home, so she can dive into crafts anytime. On weekends, an entire day may fly by while sewing.

The cupboards in the sewing room usually stay organized. Otherwise, the room might be in chaos when the creative process is underway.

The initial excitement of a new idea is so addictive that I don’t want or can’t stop creating, even though I may not actually need more clothes. The unpleasant phases include tracing patterns, and cutting pattern papers is downright frustrating. I don’t like working with paper, and paper crafting isn’t my thing. When fabric comes into play, it’s a completely different story.

This is a hobby that produces necessities. Or, well, sometimes I knit and crochet plush toys for my own pleasure. Also, the t-shirt with a portrait of Minna Canth and her quote, “All women should not do handicrafts” on it was not strictly necessary. I tend make enough crafts for others too.

The strangest thing I’ve sewn is a doll resembling Kie von Hertzen, the guitarist of Don Huonot, which I made for a friend. The Kie doll was, of course, dressed in a blazer, skinny jeans, a black beanie, and glasses. This was 25 years ago, but the doll is still around.

Through sewing, I have also found a way to help. I have made things like patchwork quilts for hospital neonatal units with friends I’ve met in Facebook sewing groups. The tiny preemie clothes were carefully designed with nurses to precisely meet the needs of the little ones.

A patchwork quilt for a hospital neonatal unit takes Marja one evening from cutting the patches to the finished quilt. Marja has all the tools readily available in her sewing room.

“I’m not that fond of basting. However, it’s sometimes necessary if you want to get into fine-tuning details,” Marja says. The denim jacket is a true recycled garment; it’s sewn from old jeans. Small, cute details bring Marja joy. Marja enjoys making pockets, topstitching, embroidery, labels, and beautifully finished seams.

The best way to learn is by doing, including making mistakes. People often ask me how I’ve managed to make clothes that are considered difficult. I have a secret: I always read the instructions carefully. I study illustrated guides and learn something new each time.

It doesn’t matter if you sometimes have to undo, fix, and adjust. Fine-tuning details is wonderful. And when I decide that the work is good enough, I don’t regret small mishaps afterward.

I hope that my ability to create with my hands lasts until the end of my life. I’d like to apprentice with a tailor, to make a man’s suit properly with all the details, guided by a professional. There is also a course in London where you can design and create your own high-heel shoe collection. That would be fantastic.