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All wound up about knitting

“I enjoy it when knitting tests my nerves”: knitwear designer Johanna Ärje welcomes lengthy projects

Knitwear designer Johanna Ärje, also known as Anna Johanna, is known for her romantic style. For her own enjoyment, she chooses challenging, even painfully difficult projects. That’s why she calls herself a masochistic knitter.

“The best part of knitting is starting a new project. The moment you cast on new stitches is always filled with hope. You get to begin a piece that could turn out truly wonderful.

Knitting isn’t always meditative, of course. Sometimes the swear words start flying, and I can feel in my whole body that it might be wiser to do something else. Still, I usually finish even the toughest projects, because I’m just that stubborn.

I draw most of my inspiration from yarn. When I run my hands over them, they tell me what they’re meant to become. Yarn shops really should have sample skeins for everyone to feel.

How the yarn is spun determines what it’s best suited for. In carded yarn, the fibers are randomly arranged, while in combed yarn, they’re brushed in one direction. As a result, carded yarn is airy, and combed yarn drapes beautifully. Roving yarn, which is only partially spun, must be worked with a gentle touch so it won’t break.

I personally prefer carded yarn for its rustic wool feel.

Johanna and skeins of yarn.
Johanna’s favorite is carded yarn, which is especially suited to cable knits. “I think cables are beautiful, but I hate knitting them because the twists interrupt my flow.” You can follow Johanna on Instagram at _.annajohanna._
Johanna’s knitting book.
Johanna’s knitting book Onnensäikeitä (Strands of Joy) has also been translated into English. “I’m working toward breaking through internationally as a knitwear designer.”
“As a teenager, I was unsure of my abilities in every way. I gained tons of self-confidence when I managed to create a wearable garment with my own hands.”

I became interested in knitting in junior high. As a teenager, I was extremely insecure about myself and my abilities, and it felt like I had no tangible skills.

In our school’s craft classes, we knitted sweaters. I chose yarn that was too variegated, and the stitch pattern muddled the colors even more. My friend, on the other hand, knitted cables in natural white yarn, which looked gorgeous in that specific yarn. I got fired up, convinced I could make something equally lovely.

At home, I knitted a new sweater in a solid color. It turned out amazing, and I gained tons of self-confidence when I managed to create a wearable garment with my own hands.

From that moment on, knitting swept me away. My passion truly took off when I moved to Jyväskylä in the early 2000s to study. That was the first time I could really visit yarn shops, and around the same time, I started discovering online knitting communities and patterns.

Johanna spinning yarn.
Johanna also spins yarn. Ready-carded and dyed spinning wool can be purchased online. The spinning wheel is likely her grandmother’s grandmother’s, dating back to the early 1900s. “When I knit, I like using neutral and harmonious colors, but when I spin, the yarn can burst with color.”
Wool socks with visible mending.
“Our laminate floor at home destroys any socks in just a few weeks, so I had to learn to darn them. It also aligns with sustainable values. Now I darn all my torn socks, and I like to do it visibly,” Johanna says.

Even as a child, I dreamed of becoming a fashion designer. At some point, I began to imagine knitting for a living. In 2016, I put my first pattern up for sale on the knitting site Ravelry. It was a brown cardigan with lace in the yoke. By the end of that year, 18 copies of the pattern had been sold, which felt huge to me. That same fall, I listed my next pattern.

Around that time, I was working as a statistics researcher at the university. A friend suggested that I apply to Ravelry as a statistician because there’s a lot of analytics involved. She reminded me that dreams never come true unless you at least try to pursue them. I interpreted that in my own way, realizing if I’d been dreaming of being a knitwear designer for so long, I had to be bold enough to go for it.

I started a side business selling knitting patterns in 2018. When my fixed-term contract at the university ended the following year, I became a full-time entrepreneur.

Johanna with a lace-patterned shawl.
The triangular, lace-patterned Karamelli shawl finished with large tassels is Johanna’s latest and favorite shawl. “No shawl has ever been ruined by adding tassels.”
A sweater Johanna made.
As a knitwear designer, Johanna’s livelihood largely comes from selling individual knitting patterns. The Wrought Iron sweater is one of the first designs she offered for sale. “I used the intarsia technique in the round, so it’s seamless. It takes some maneuvering, which I enjoy.”
A lace-patterned cardigan.
The lace-patterned Matta cardigan is also part of Johanna’s children’s collection. “Having a child a year and a half ago changed me as a knitter. I used to be more impatient, always looking forward to the next project. Now I love projects that are sure to take a long time to finish.”

My style as a knitwear designer is timeless and romantic. I want my designs to look great now and in fifteen years. Knitting them should also be pleasant and accessible to people of different skill levels.

Sometimes I take a break from designing and knit purely for my own enjoyment. At those times, I look for patterns that really test my nerves. I love challenges and enjoy it when knitting is laborious, even downright agonizing. That’s why I call myself a masochistic knitter.

Johanna holding her own handmade knits.
Knits store memories, Johanna says. “Yarns remind you of where, when, or with whom they were purchased. And each stitch holds something from the moment it was made.”
A cardigan with a bear motif.
Being able to talk about knitting online or at knit nights means a lot to Johanna. “It’s wonderful to have people around who want to discuss which sweaters are the dreamiest. We speak the same language, whether that’s Finnish or English.” The bear-patterned Woodland is one of the most popular designs in her Strands of Joy book.
“I unraveled my lace blanket and started it over four times. I like the fact that it takes a while.”

Not long ago, I finished a blanket for our living room sofa with four different lace sections. I unraveled and restarted it four times. My Instagram followers were horrified, saying they wouldn’t have the energy to keep going. But I like it when a project takes time. With patience, the blanket turned out really well.

I usually have only one project going at a time. If my hands are free, there’s rarely a moment when I’m not knitting. Once I pick up my needles, I calm right down, and I can even focus better on conversations or movies.

Doing this for a living has been the greatest dream of my life. I’ve never been this happy. I hope it can go on forever.”

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