Gentle steams on a freezing day—this log sauna was built from an old sheep house

The view over the snowy fields toward the sauna is the same as it was decades ago. The red sauna cottage has hardly changed since Pertti's childhood. It's still conveniently located, just a quick walk from both the field and the riverbank.

During the bright summer days of his childhood, Pertti and his siblings were often seen running barefoot across the worn grassy path to the cool river and back to the sauna's warmth. Every summer day was a swimming day, and they'd stay in the sauna until their chattering teeth finally stopped.

“When I was five and missing my front teeth, I remember burning myself on the hot water in the cauldron in the sauna. Fortunately, a quick dip in a vat of cold water cooled off this impatient bather,” Pertti recalls.

This 17-square-meter log sauna cottage, built in the 1940s, stands in the village of Pirttikoski in Pyhäjoki, Northern Ostrobothnia. It's where Ulla Saarenpää and Pertti Oravisjärvi, along with their 19-year-old daughter Julia, come to bathe in the sauna.

Ulla and Julia use the sauna from spring through late autumn. In winter, it’s heated only on special occasions. On a freezing day, the gentle steam is so inviting that you might never want to leave.

In the past, this oil lantern guided those heading to the sauna.

On a crisp, frosty day, the sauna takes a bit longer to heat.

Rope railings were installed on the terrace beside the sauna. Pertti and Ulla didn’t want to obstruct the river view.

The sauna cottage remains largely in its original state, except for the old, leaky felt roof, which was replaced with sheet metal. Pertti also added a terrace, perfect for relaxing and watching the sun set over the Pyhäjoki River. It’s one of the family’s favorite spots.

While luxuriating in the sauna’s warmth, Pertti eagerly reminisces about his childhood.

“My parents built this sauna from an old sheep cottage. In the old days, after a threshing day, the villagers who helped would come here to have a sauna, then move on to the next house the following day,” Pertti explains.

Today's first round of firewood was burned in the morning. Though a brisk -20°C doesn’t discourage these winter bathers, it does extend the heating time of the sauna. The fire beneath the old water cauldron helps achieve the perfect temperature. They settle onto the benches as soon as the thermometer hits 80°C.

While waiting for the sauna to heat, Ulla, Pertti, and Julia relax on the terrace, sipping coffee and snacking. From time to time, Pertti adds more birch logs to the sauna stove or under the cauldron.

“The best thing about a winter sauna is its fresh feel. The sauna starts out cold, so as the log walls heat up, they release a surprising amount of moisture, giving the heat its gentle quality,” Ulla muses.

In winter, the sauna is heated only on special occasions.

This old birch-bark backpack was a treasure discovered in the attic. After Ulla cleaned it, she gave it a place of honor in the dressing room.

Ulla loves decorating, which is evident in the candle wreaths and charming details throughout the sauna.

Here, your thoughts drift to days past. The oil lanterns, darkened old logs, and handcrafted sauna items remain just as they were in the old days.

Even the walk to this riverside cottage sets a special mood. The road that cuts across the fields is always traveled on foot.

One side of the cottage now serves as a dressing room. Ulla furnished it with attic finds from Pertti’s childhood. One can only guess how far those charming old skis once traveled across the countryside.

The doorway to the sauna room is so low that everyone must bow upon entry. Traditional oil lanterns and the stove’s glow offer soft illumination inside.

“When you come here, you must humble yourself. Bow first, and only then can you climb onto the benches,” Ulla jokes as she vanishes into the steamy haze.

Ulla and Julia may stay on the benches for up to an hour. The dark log walls seem to make time disappear, and the light shining through the small window feels almost magical. Any sense of hurry fades away here.

Even mixing the washing water to the perfect temperature is soothing. The cloud of steam is made bigger with each ladleful of water splashed onto the stones of the stove, soon fogging the window completely. Enveloped in this gentle warmth, the mother and daughter hesitate to step back out into the frosty landscape.

They opt to splash one more ladle of water onto the stones and treat themselves to face masks.